There are several fantastic scenic routes in Nova Scotia. Marine Drive takes you along the lesser-traveled Eastern Shore. This is one of our most favorite Nova Scotia driving tours. The Eastern Shore is rugged and much more isolated than many of the other drives. You have a feeling of traveling back in time to the period where Nova Scotia was first settled. The time we drove Marine Drive fog had moved in. This gave it a very nautical theme. Most of the drive hugs the shoreline so you have many opportunities to witness great views. If you are looking for city thrills with lots of restaurants, then you will not find it here. If you are looking for a truly natural experience, seeing a part of Nova Scotia that a lot of people overlook than this is that kind of a trip.
Marine Drive begins at the junction of Route 322 and Highway 111 in Dartmouth and ends about in the location across the causeway from the town of Hastings. The distance from the two points is around 410km and about 5 hours and 30 minutes drive. The road can be a little worse for wear in some sections so this route may take a little longer than expected.
Here is a following of some of the towns and sites you will drive through along the way:
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Cow Bay
Cow Bay is an unincorporated rural community that is a popular spot for surfers. There is a boardwalk called Flag Pond Coastal Access Park which brings you down to a great view. Sometimes you can watch surfers do their thing in the area as well. There are two internationally known beaches (due to surfing) in the area called Rainbow Haven and Silver Sands. In the area there are also hiking/biking trails such as the Salt Marsh Trail and Shearwater Flyer.
Lawrencetown Beach
Lawrencetown is another popular beach for surfing. While surfing and bodyboarding are popular close to the beach, the truly rideable waves are to be found at the point break. It is also a great beach for just sitting and relaxing. There are cold showers, bathrooms and change rooms on location (check to see its opening times). Lawrencetown is also a great beach to go after a storm to watch massive waves rolling in from the Atlantic.
Hope For Wildlife
Hope For Wildlife is a charitable wildlife rehabilitation and education organization located in Seaforth, Nova Scotia. This organization takes in and rehabilitates many wild animals native to the province. People who find injured or orphaned animals can call for help or bring them to the shelter. Hope For Wildlife is also famous for its documentary series of the same name that began filming in 2009 and helps fund the park. Visitors are welcome by clicking on the link you can find out visiting hours and information.
Aqua Prime Mussel Ranch LTD.
A little bit further before you arrive at Ship Harbour there is an oyster farm called Aqua Prime Mussel Ranch Ltd. This is where you can get fresh oysters. They have been called the “Best mussels and oysters around.” We picked some up for when we later arrived at our campsite to cook them up on the open fire. If you like oysters its worth the stop, just off the main road.
Tailor Head Provincial Park
The next site to see is Tailor Head. It has a really nice beach that is great for snorkeling. There is a display area where you can learn about all the different marine life in the area that you can see. There are also some hiking trails and a picnic area. The trails provide 10km (8.7mi) of unspoiled coastline. Bathrooms are located conveniently beside the parking lot.
Liscomb Mills
As you enter The small community of Liscombe Mills you will drive passed the Liscombe River. The Liscombe River is one of a few rivers in the province that is navigable by Canoe. It is an intermediate river with rapids of varying degrees of difficulty. Also in the town is the well established Liscombe Lodge. It is advertised as a nature escape where one can disconnect and relaex. It is truly tucked away in a natural wooded area. The forest above the Lodge is a wilderness reserve all together encompassing 6,325 hectares. The area is used for paddling and camping. As well there are various hiking trails and ocean activities that one can do while staying at the lodge.
Sherbrooke
The next town is Sherbrooke. It is more of a center for the area. The town is located on the dramatic St. Mary’s River. The river is dramatic as it is surrounded by steep walls where various birds of prey inhabit such as the bald eagle, osprey, hawks, and the great horned owl. The river was named for Fort Sainte-Marie, a French-built fort which was later taken over and destroyed by the British, and is famous for its angling and run of Atlantic salmon. The salmon population has since declined and even catch and release is strictly prohibited. None the less you can still enjoy paddling the river.
Charles Baye de La Giraudière established a fort along the banks of the St. Mary’s River in 1650, named Fort Sainte-Marie. In 1669 the fort was captured by the British and the name of the community changed to Sherbrooke in honor of the Lt. Governor of Nova Scotia. Among the first to settle the area were a family from New Hampshire.
The entire area has a pioneer klondike feel to it. Gold was discovered in 1861. Miners came from all over Canad and the United States to stake a claim. Goldenville became a boomtown. The rush lasted for 20 years.
There is an open-air museum with live actors showcasing village life in the 19th century. There are barns housing all sorts of farm animals, various workshops, a blacksmith shop, a restaurant, all together around 30 buildings. It employs around 100 people from the town, definately worth a visit.
Guysborough
Guysborough is a town that has a lot of history. It was involved in the battles fought between the French and English and the French and Indian War. It was also known for being the location of a Black Loyalist settlement during the American Revolution. One of Canada’s most renowned touring theatre companies, Mulgrave Road Theatre, has its home in Guysborough and for more than 30 years, has created and presented plays focused on the culture and the experiences of Nova Scotia. The Chedabucto Performance Theatre is a 300-seat theatre in Guysborough. Some restaurants in the town are Days Gone By, Sea Wind Landing, DesBarres Manor Inn, Riverside Dining Room, and Big Hymie’s Takeout to name a few.
Tent Camping
Here are some of the campsites along Marine Drive:
-One campground is called Norse Camping which offers according to their website boat tours “visiting the largest coastal island wilderness area in Nova Scotia. See the flat face of Ship Rock Island where the sailors of the 19th century honed their cannon skills. Walk off the boat onto the white sand beaches of Wolfes or Borgles Island. Enjoy the natural habitat of the local birdlife and sea-life. Have a picnic on the beach or on the rocks near the rainforest at Shelter Cove. Norse Cove Camping offers unique, high-quality, customizable island tour adventures for small groups (up to 8 people).” and Kayak and Sup Rentals. For tent camping they offer wood platforms for tents in a very forested area. Loose wood can be collected for a fire or one can purchase bundled wood for a fee.
-Near the town of Sherbrooke you will find Salsman Provincial Park. There are around 30 campsites here.
-The road in is Gravel and 1 mile from a paved road. WWII Radio Tower is open Year Round. There are 1-5 campsites at this location. Click on the link to get more site information and GPS coordinates. There is tent camping available here.
–Ainslie Village Campground is located near the town of Canso.
–Seabreeze Island Campsites according to their website “is a place where simple pleasures can be relished, whether it is solitude you seek, or sense of community. Nights with campfires, mussel boils on the beach, spontaneous jam sessions, our potluck Saturdays, and friendly neighbors make this a happy spot. We have an abundance of amenities, including a common room and kitchen for rainy days. Choose from tent sites overlooking the ocean, well-treed serviced sites for RV’s, many with ocean views, or our cozy cottage and RV rentals.”
-Near the town of Guysborough we stayed at Boylston Provincial Park Campground. This is a great campground for tent camping. The entire park is located high up in the hills and has an alpine feel to it. When we went the park check-in was self serve using a phone dial system.
As mentioned there are not a huge amount of campsites to choose from so plan in advance if possible. When we went on this trip it was a great experience. One of our favorite Nova Scotia scenic drives. If you drive the entire length of Marine Drive from Halifax and you would like to return by the quickest route, you can take Highway 104 to exit 15 and then highway 102 back to Halifax.